Työ 0024 (X-Kilt | Offtopic | English)

So time for a totally random post that is not related to upholstery. I finally got the time and motivation to craft my very own kilt (with a help of Youtube video for inspiration and X Marks the Scot for the how-to part).

This has been a long process indeed.. I've wanted a kilt for ages - actually the first time I wanted one was for a High School dance, but the rental shop didn't have one :/ (that's... 15years ago). Over the years that has always been at the back of my head, but never got down to dropping money for one. And now after some time learning upholstery I started thinking - what if I'd make one myself "it can't be that hard".. yeah right xD

For the project I mainly used our SINGER 160 Anniversary (Limited Edition) sewing machine, and as a backup had my own TOYOTA SuperJ34. Other tools and materials needed / used on this project :
- Thread (well duh!)
- Revolving leather belt hole puncher (optional)
- Velcro

Before actually thinking of the design too much I had already bought the fabric, studs and d-rings. All this based on the video I saw on Youtube for 511 Tactical Kilt review. Super nice close-ups and immediately I knew - that's the route I'm going for. But it really wasn't enough so I ended up browsing the web for more info and stumbled upon X Marks the Scot forum and their well crafted how-to-tutorial for The X-Kilt A Contemporary Kilt You Can Sew Yourself. With these two I ended up "goin' to town" and started the project (finally!). E : Instructables has some nice guides also, so recommend checking them for your projects (not just for making a kilt).

In the beginning I took some measurements for waist, rump, fell and drop (like the pdf guides you to do). Then I cut my fabric in two and sewed the two parts together (I only had 2meters of the M05 Cooltex 3 and I calculated that I'd need around 3.2m or so). The fabric was 150cm wide so I had some extra left even after the cut&paste. Only needed ~57cm wide part (drop+hem : 23") for the kilt. 

Found some thread from my box, but it ended up being too thick for my machine so my McGyver spooling was done for naught. 

After sewing the two parts together I went and did a overlock stitch throughout the whole piece - oh boy, that ended up using like 4 spools of thread :D After that I sewed the hem and then the preparations were done.  

It took me few tries to calculate and draw the correct lines for the pleats and over/under aprons that were actually straight and that they hid my connecting seam of the two parts...

 ...and to make my job easier I ended up ironing the line folds (saved a lot of time by doing this mind you).

Fast forward few minutes and I had sewed the outer edges of my pleats and the result is actually looking like a kilt.. well a bit at least.

 Measured and drew the center lines I wanted my pleats to fall to and pinned them down.

 First try.. Yeah it should have enoughmaterial to go around my arse.

 And then it was time for my first f*ckup of the project -.- "Bar-Tacking the pleast".. I really don't know how I managed to mess this up so royally when I just needed to zig-zag small part at the fell line but I ended up zig-zaging from fell to belt-line *facepalm* (too much beer and sherry at this point?)  

 So time for some correction.. Still the tacks ended up being a bit on the larger side, but this will do.

From this stage there is no picture, but I sewed the inside folds of the pleast so that after washing the kilt they'd still fall down nicely without too much ironing.

 I tapered the fell, stiched it down and attached my waistband.

Now this is the moment I get to do some major DIY-McGyver modifications to the design. Pieces for the snaps to hold down the front flap (idea taken from the Youtube video). Eyeballed it to a correct location and sewed it on.

Oooooh! that knee though ;)

Then it was time for the belt loops. Now there might be some nicer way of doing this, but hey - first time doing an actual piece of clothing...

 Two on the front, two on the back and one on each side (total of six belt loops).

 IT FITS and stays on actually! Score!

Then it was time for the snap press studs on the front - three on each side to hold the front apron. Little measuring and some eyeballing the correct spots for them. 

And again - test fitting how it stays on.

Someone might have forgotten that they had the d-rings (and doing some adjustments on the front two belt rings...). But it ended up looking ok after few stitches. But by doing the adjustments before hand the belt loops wouldn't look so small in comparison to the rings.. Remember that the next time.

 And here's the kilt already in wearable condition (although I do want to add one more thing).

Removable cargo pockets and flaps for them (flaps sewed on the kilt, underneath velcro and snap studs. Again eyeing these things as I go along. And naturally I had to do pleats for the pockets as well.

Now this part was a pain to do with the rotating punching tool. Recon I need to purchase a set of punches to go with a hammer.. 

 Should have / could have placed the velcro parts a bit differently for smaller top flaps.. But hey - going with the flow (remember that next time ;) ).

Snap studs on the flaps and then it's time to measure and place them.
And just a few more lines of stitching to go.

There.. It's done.. For real this time.
Love how the pattern ended up working with the kilt and the side pockets. Next versio will have some minor tweaks on the design and hopefully by that time I've learned how to make actual side pockets.

Selfie time!

And the same rotation taken by another person. 

So why do this...? 
...Because I can ;) 


Materials :

Tutorial :

Extras :

Cost & Time :
~30€ & Weekend
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